Permanent makeup is an art, but did you know it's also a science? While most PMU artists focus on technique, very few actually understand the science behind pigments, skin, and retention. And that knowledge? It can be the difference between average results and flawless, long-lasting work that clients rave about.
If you’ve ever had a client say their brows faded weirdly, their lip blush turned too cool, or their eyeliner didn’t hold… chances are, it wasn’t your technique. It was science at play. Let’s dive into the nerdy side of PMU that no one is talking about (but everyone should know).
The Truth About Pigment Molecules (Size Matters!)
Did you know that pigment molecules come in different sizes? And that size affects how your work heals?
Smaller pigment molecules (like those found in organic pigments) fade faster because the body metabolizes them more easily.
Larger pigment molecules (in inorganic pigments) tend to stay put longer but may heal darker or duller.
Why it matters: If you’re using organic pigments for brows, your client might need a touch-up sooner. If you’re working with inorganic pigments for lip blush, be mindful of how they might heal cooler.
Pro Tip: Always educate your clients about what to expect based on the pigments you use. It sets proper expectations and prevents complaints later!
2. Skin Undertones Are Sabotaging Your Work (Without You Realizing It)
If you’ve ever had a client whose healed brows turned too ashy or too warm, it wasn’t bad luck - it was their undertone at play.
- Cool undertones (pink, blue, or purple skin tones) = Pigments may heal ashy or gray.
- Neutral undertones (balanced mix of warm and cool) = Pigments heal true to color.
- Warm undertones (yellow, golden, or red skin tones) = Pigments can heal overly warm or even orange.
Why it matters: If you don’t account for undertones, your perfectly matched pigment can heal as the wrong color.
Pro Tip: Always neutralize extreme undertones. If a client has very cool-toned skin, consider using a warmer pigment to balance it out. If they have strong yellow undertones, avoid pigments with too much warmth.
3. The Role of Blood Flow in PMU Retention (The Secret No One Talks About)
Ever had a client’s brows fade way too fast despite perfect technique? Their blood flow and metabolism might be the real culprit.
Clients with high blood circulation (athletes, fast metabolism, younger skin) = Faster fading, more touch-ups needed.
Clients with slow blood circulation (older skin, less active lifestyles) = Pigment holds longer, but may take longer to settle.
Why it matters: If you have a client who works out daily and sweats a lot, their PMU will fade faster - no matter how deep you implant the pigment.
Pro Tip: Let high-metabolism clients know they may need more frequent touch-ups. Charge accordingly so you don’t end up working for free!
PMU isn’t just an art, it’s a science. Understanding pigment size, undertones, and blood flow can help you create better results, set the right expectations, and avoid those dreaded “Why did my brows fade so fast?” messages.
The more you know, the more confident you become not just in your work, but in your ability to charge premium prices. Because an artist who understands the why behind their work? That’s an expert clients will pay top dollar for.